Saltmoore, North Yorkshire: Sea, Spa and Slowing Down

Saltmoore nestled on the North Yorkshire coast, just north of Whitby, is more than just a luxury hotel by the beach. While the beach and ocean always seem to restore me, the two treatments I had in the spa with Laura left me more relaxed than I had been in months. 

The Saltmoore main pool

The Spa

I decided to make my first full day my wellness day with two treatments and an afternoon tea (more on this later). I picked a massage and a facial both using Wildsmith products, a brand I hadn’t come across before. I love finding new natural, sustainable, quality face and body products and these felt lovely on my skin both during and post treatment. 

Most massages and facials at Saltmoore are 60 minutes, but there are a few combined treatments. Individual treatments are £140, which from my experience is good value for a luxury spa. It’s also possible to book days, morning or evening sessions with a treatment and use of the other facilities if you’re not a hotel guest.

For my session, I picked a Rebalancing Massage followed by a Regenerative Radiance Facial. I preferred this combination from what was offered because it gave me a more tailored option, which is true self care. Two hours also allows a true unwinding experience. Laura talked through the treatment and products to begin, and I couldn’t wait to lie down in the calming room to drift off. Usually, I prefer a firm pressure massage, but Laura knew exactly what I needed. This massage wasn’t one to be pummelled and pressed, rather long and sometimes deep strokes got me sinking deeper into the bed and soothed the muscles in a softer, more gentle way. I wasn’t sure if it was doing much initially, but once I stood up at the end, I moved more easily and felt refreshed as well as relaxed. For the facial, plenty of products were used to cleanse, rejuvenate and moisturise my skin without piling too much on. I hate that claustrophobic feeling of excess facial products. My skin felt fresh and clear afterwards with all the care Laura put into the treatment. I loved the products so much I even purchased a shower oil to keep my skin extra moisturised during the upcoming cooler months. 

Treatment room at Saltmoore

The Room

There are two locations to stay at Saltmoore, the main Saltmoore House and The Beach House, which despite the name is not on the beach. I booked a Master Room, which was big for me on my own, but walking in seeing the giant, cosy emperor bed, I wanted to run and jump on it and starfish to my heart’s content. A bed is one of the things I most judge a room by, and this had cosy, soft sheets and my favourite feeling of wanting to chill out there for hours, always a good sign. The other feature that hits you straight away is the bathtub along the far wall. There is also a separate New York loft style feel bathroom with two sinks and a powerful shower. I’m still not sure how I feel about a bath in a room. It’s ok when you’re alone, but I don’t see the romance in it. Being the height of summer, I wasn’t in the mood for a bath, but I did appreciate being able to use Wildsmith products every day, especially as I loved them so much in the spa. 

My favourite part of the room was the corner seat, an ideal spot for my morning meditation. I could sit crossed-legged without feeling cramped and it was tucked away, so it felt like a little haven. It seemed to be made for curling up with a book. Another great thing was the free mini bar, stocked with pretzels, chocolate, sweets, biltong and soft drinks, which was refilled every day but one. The absolute best treat though was the white chocolate and rye cookies on arrival, wrapped with Saltmoore paper and a pretty, green bow. They were so moreish. Sometimes I am glad to travel alone when I get twice the treats. 

One of the Master Rooms in Saltmoore House

Gardens 

While my room was overlooking the front, some have views of the gardens. This is where you can truly escape. Several little paths twist and turn through pretty, flower beds that leave you feeling like you are walking through a period drama, especially when you stumble across a hidden seating spot ideal for catching the sun peeking through the trees or contemplating what to do next. The top end of the garden takes you to a lake and bridge with elegant, white, Victorian style ironwork. As the house was part of the 19th century Raithwaite estate, these features are some of the only parts of how the house and grounds used to feel since the modernising into a 21st century wellness estate. This is also where the newest wellness edition to Saltmoore can be found, the lakeside sauna. It wasn’t open when I visited but it is now. It costs £65 for 45 minutes for up to 6 people, so an extra cost even for hotel guests unlike other spa facilities. It did look very cute, cosy and peaceful away from the world overlooking the lake. 

Pretty flower gardens

Afternoon Tea

Continuing with my wellbeing day, I had afternoon tea and it was one of the biggest surprises of my stay and good value at only £35 or £49 with a glass of Moët Chandon. The sandwiches were simple and traditional; coronation chicken, smoked salmon, and egg mayonnaise, which I think is a must have. I would have liked the bread to be more than standard average bread, but the fillings were plentiful and tasty. The onion and marmalade sausage roll chunk was the standout for sure here. You could tell it was homemade with quality ingredients. The two small scones, one plain and one raisin, were both crisp on the outside and soft and fluffy inside. The raisin one won it for me, and I was very happy to see clotted cream and regular strawberry jam. Sometimes you don’t need to mess with tradition. While the scones were outstanding, the pastries were another level and some of the top London hotel pastry chefs could learn a trick from Saltmoore’s pastry chef.  Each one was full of real flavour. I am not a lemon fan, but the lemon, white chocolate and elderflower tart was sweet and zingy without being overpowering and the flavours mixed together in a subtle way on top of the fine, crisp pastry base. The hazelnut praline mille-feuille had a butteriness that combined with the creamy filling, and the dark chocolate and espresso cake, was basically a mini opera torte, one of my favourites. Again, a combination of two strong tastes, chocolate and coffee, that matched well. The setting in the Orangerie overlooking the terrace with the gardens in the background fitted the summer weather, even if I did get rather too hot at times. 

Some of the best pastries on the afternoon tea

Food

Apart from the afternoon tea, some of the other food was very mixed. Breakfast had a good number of options from the à la carte menu. I tried avocado on toast twice, which was good but a bit too much onion so I felt like I had onion breathe for ages. I mixed this up with a self-picked traditional cooked breakfast, chosen with scrambled eggs. I pick my own from the usual breakfast suspects as I am not a black pudding or beans fan. Unfortunately, this option must have been pre-prepared and sat as it was cold. Not good enough for this standard of hotel. The buffet part was also mixed. There was one of the best homemade granolas I have tasted. Not too sweet and lots of good stuff. The pastries looked better than they tasted. I was excited by a raspberry and pistachio one, but there was the smallest amount of pistachio paste on top and then nothing. It also didn’t taste great. 

My first day I stopped in the Wellness Café that is part of the Spa. For a light lunch I picked a Caesar salad and broth. The salad was a side dish, so it was small, with no egg or croutons. I loved the crispy bacon bits that joined together to give a more intense flavour. The chicken, ginger and lemongrass broth provided a good flavour combination and lots of goodness.

The biggest disappointment was the Brasserie on the first night. I was excited by the sample menu I had seen before arriving, but the actual menu missed the mark for me and not a lot grabbed my attention.  For starter I had the quail stuffed pasta with a caper, hazelnut pesto, which was strong and earthy but also light with the sauce. I enjoyed it. None of the main courses jumped out at me, so I went with the aubergine schnitzel as I love a chicken and pork schnitzel. Aubergine it seems is hard to cook well. It was greasy on the outside and mush on the inside. The side tomato salad was fine, but not overly flavoursome. When asked if it was ok, I said no and the manager offered to bring me something else, but I didn’t feel like it. I was given a discount on the meal, which I didn’t ask for or expect, but was a very nice touch. 

My last night meal was the exact opposite of this at the Pizzeria at the Beach House. There were five pizzas, some starters and three pastas, plus some sides to choose from and I was spoilt for choice. I was tempted with the burrata to start but went straight in with the basil, caper, lemon butter crab and scampi homemade pappardelle pasta with a rocket, lemon and parmesan salad to complement. Being in Whitby by the sea it felt right to have some Whitby scampi and fresh local crab, and it tasted fresh and full of flavour. Delicious.

The most delicious Granola that was a staple every day for breakfast

Facilities

The Sanctuary at Saltmoore is the perfect description for how the spa area felt. The team were welcoming and friendly and the setting was calm and peaceful even in the pool area when there were a few people around. The big pool loungers helped this, and you can reserve a spot if you want to hang for a couple of hours. The pool was big enough to get a good swim or to float away. It was overlooked by the sauna, steam room and separate jacuzzi, which I prefer. You don’t need things on top of each other. There was also a Brass Monkey ice bath, which seemed to get warmer as the four days passed, or I was getting more used to the cold. Flip flops and robes are provided in the stylish changing area so you can keep the spa and room separate. 

The gym just about provided what I needed. I did find it strange that there were two smith machines and quite a lot of very heavy weights. One smith machine and something else would be a better use of the space. I managed four good workouts with what was available and participated in the summer offering of outdoor Pilates and yoga overlooking the gardens, which was a great way to start the day before heading out and about. 

It’s gym time let’s workout

On The Doorstep

Being right by the coast, the beach is at the bottom of the Saltmoore driveway across the road. When the tide is out it’s possible to walk along the sand two miles to Whitby where a striking view of the dark Whitby Abbey ruins against the sea and beach gets closer. It’s easy to see how it inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula. The other direction takes you to Sandsend beach, a family friendly flat stretch of sand. Fish Cottage a cute, fisherman style restaurant and takeaway offering is a super find nestled in the corner of the road, back from the beach. There is plenty of seating at the front, but I took my cod and chips up the road to eat overlooking the ocean, which is what summer evenings are made for. The batter was very crisp and not greasy while the fish was fresh and soft. It was one of the best fish and chips I have had in a good while. 

Views over towards Whitby

Moments That Shone

-       Afternoon Tea: Some of the tastiest and most flavoursome pastries I have had on any afternoon tea.

-       Massage: I felt extremely relaxed and all my achy bits had gone. 

-       Dinner at Pizzeria at the Beach House: The ocean flavours of the crab and scampi with the fresh pappardelle pasta worked well with the peppery rocket salad. 

-       Room: Lots of space, two cosy seating areas including one to curl up in, and a huge bed. Oh, and a free mini bar. 

Crab and Whitby scampi homemade pappardelle pasta with a rocket and parmesan salad

Moments That Fell Short

-       Breakfast: The traditional cooked breakfast was very lukewarm to cool when I had it, and the bacon was barely cooked in places. The second time I chose it, the eggs were at least cooked fresh as I was very late coming in.

-       Dinner at The Brasserie: I didn’t love the menu and the vegetarian option I picked was inedible. The biggest disappointment of the trip.

The lawn ready for summer and early morning Pilates

Staying four nights at Saltmoore gave me the perfect start to my mini Northern road trip. I was able to chill out, get some fresh sea air and enjoy some rest and relaxation. I was almost sad to hit the road again as I felt very settled and at home. While some of the food was mixed, the afternoon tea and seafood stood out as some of the best I have ever tasted. Saltmoore is the sort of place that is very different depending on the season. It offers families and couples an escape in summer with the beach on the doorstep, but I can imagine it would be very cosy in winter and more suited for a romantic weekend getaway or a place to recover after hiking in the North York Moors that surround the whole area.