Matfen Hall, Northumberland: Historic Style With Modern Twists

Looking at photos of Matfen Hall’s Great Hall, I was expecting something grand, but nothing prepared me for the moment I first stepped in. The high vaulted blue ceilings covered in golden stars are almost like the night sky. It’s unlike a traditional English country estate, more like a Gothic castle. It feels cosy and welcoming, especially with the log fire roaring away. I couldn’t wait to see what the rest of Matfen Hall had for me to discover over the next couple of days.

The Great Hall at Matfen Hall

The Room

As the weather was good when I booked, I decided to stay in a balcony room, which I think was mid-range. I was fortunate to have the end room, which had more space, even enough for a mini workout. Everything was good without being outstanding. The bed was as comfortable as you would hope even if there were a couple of holes towards the edge of the sheet, which was the first thing I noticed that didn’t meet the standards of a five-star hotel. The next was the lack of amenity replenishment during the stay. It was one set of bathroom products for the duration, which for a two-day stay was manageable for one person, but I would doubt it for two people. The single pack of biscuits also didn’t get replaced, and water only in the evening at turn down and not through the regular room servicing. A definite miss at this level. I did love the strong shower but didn’t use the bath as it was still too warm for a hot bath. Not for me in summer, thank you. My favourite part of the room was the balcony, with the view of the church. There was also a view of the spa rebuilding works, which, thankfully, wasn’t too noisy, being the weekend. The church on the other hand, chimed every hour, even through the night. Luckily it didn’t disturb me too much and I quickly got used to it. It was almost soothing. Some may not enjoy it though, so beware if booking this room.

The balcony end room

The Food

Probably the standout food wise of my time at Matfen Hall was the Sunday lunch. It’s £35 for two courses, and £45 for three. I had two courses and thought it was worth every penny. The setting of the Emerald Restaurant is cosy yet stylish and relaxed with the floor to ceiling bookcases along either end. I loved sitting in the little window alcove overlooking the golf course as it felt a bit more private being on my own.

My starter was a trout that was light, fresh and summery. There was a soft, warm serving of focaccia to accompany it. For my main course, I chose the pork over the beef or fish options, and it was huge. The pork wasn’t fatty and had some good crispy crackling. Then there were the accompaniments. All the vegetables to count towards your five a day, a huge fluffy Yorkshire pudding and a big gravy boat filled just for me. It filled me up so much, I couldn’t manage dessert.

Both mornings I enjoyed breakfast, which was also in the Emerald Restaurant. My favourite was the second day’s smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on rye sourdough. Soft and creamy eggs with the deep flavour of the toast combined perfectly. Both days I had a bowl of fresh fruit with a lime and mint dressing, a light way to kick things off. My other pick was an omelette with cheese, ham and mushrooms. What surprised me most were the big chunks of ham hock as opposed to thin slices. It was the real stuff, which was a treat.

Service was attentive and friendly, with a side of Northumberland humour.

Sunday roast in the Emerald restaurant

Afternoon Tea

While most of the food was good, afternoon tea was a disappointment. The usual setting of the cosy Drawing Room was unavailable due to a wedding. This meant I was in the imposing and stylish Cloisters. Its high archways and local Northumbrian ashlar stone don’t help to create an atmosphere, especially with few people and no music. There had been a harpist playing as I walked past before my sitting, but she had finished when I went in with my later booking. If later times are offered, the experience needs to be the same for everyone. As people left, a weird silence filled the space broken by the staff clearing up.

Some things I loved: the tea book menu with clear pockets of tea to show what to pick. As there was no ginger offering, I went with peppermint. I also love the traditional touch of the tea beautifully served in a silver teapot with a handheld tea strainer. The place setting was also daintily laid out.

The food was mixed. My favourite savoury was a tomato and burrata tartlet, which was creamy and smooth with a crisp shell. I appreciated a less traditional offering, especially when it was so good. The scones were also in the same vein. Firstly, a savoury cheddar cheese with whipped salted butter, then lemon and poppyseed. This is where things were too different for me. The jam had a strong distinct flavour, which meant any lemon flavour was completely lost.

As for the pastries, one combined strawberry confit with a burnt looking sponge. After having jam on scones, it felt like jam overload. I was looking forward to the pistachio and orange blossom tartlet, that was described as pistachio frangipane and praline, orange blossom ganache. Wow I thought. But no, not so wow. Orange blossom is very strong, and it was all you could taste. It’s now confirmed; I am not a fan.

At £45 per person, the price is on the lower end of 5-star hotel afternoon teas. I would have paid a bit more for a more consistent experience.

Afternoon tea in the Cloisters

 Facilities

Several of the facilities were closed for refurbishment during my stay, which was a shame. It meant no spa or gym, even though the new spa sounds like it will be well worth a visit. The golf academy and driving range were also closed. While I am not a golfer, I have tried the driving range a couple of times and would have been up for giving it a go again. The laser clay pigeon shooting, which was working on arrival, seemed to be broken when I wanted to use it even though the staff tried their hardest to get it sorted. It’s also no longer on the website, so make of that what you will.

When I was talking to a lovely staff member in the golf shop, I was told about the Himalayas golf, which I did try. It was £5 for as long as you wanted, or for multiple uses throughout a stay. You also get to keep your Matfen Hall branded golf ball as a memento. The course is a small 18-hole hilly putting challenge. The bumps and hills add a different dimension to a traditional putting green. It’s not very big but good fun, even on your own.

Hole three on the Himalayas golf course

 Location

The local area also provides plenty to do if you want to get out and about and experience the beauty of Northumberland. The church I could see from my room is easily accessible from a path by the hotel. It’s worth a quick look as you continue towards the village of Matfen. I did a local walk in a loop from the village around the area. The concierge team provides a map with a few routes on it, which were easy and mostly straightforward. I did get a little lost on the second day, but it all worked out without a farmer coming after me as there was no trespassing. The first day took me by Stob Stone, which dates back to the Bronze Age, about 3300-1200BC. I didn’t realise this until afterwards. You’re not meant to touch it, and I don’t know how many people even know it’s there.

It’s very close to the local Go Ape, an adventure activity that sees you explore the forest at height via ropes and zip lines. I didn’t give this a go, but I have seen it before and always thought it looked fun.

Then there is Hadrian’s Wall, which is about 2 miles away. As I was travelling both days either side of my stay, I didn’t go, but I wish I had in hindsight as it is so close. Another reason to return.

The Bronze Age Stone Stob

 Moments That Shone

-       The Great Hall: Especially with the log fire burning it’s relaxing and cosy to curl up on one of the sofas and admire the sparkle of the stained-glass windows as the sun shines through.

-       Sunday lunch: A proper traditional Sunday roast that left me needing a good walk afterwards. Outstanding value for the quality.

The roaring log fire in the Great Hall

Moments That Fell Short

-       Afternoon tea: Too many missed opportunities to create a memorable experience from atmosphere to food.

-       Room servicing: Not having toiletries refilled at any point is not five-star. When the rest of the service was excellent, this lapse was even more noticeable.

Matfen Hall is soon to be a place for true golf and spa lovers. The work being done during my stay will make it a true destination. Not having the spa available meant I needed to find other things to do such as Himalayas golf and taking time out in the Great Hall watching the fire and sparkles of the stained glass. I would love to go back and experience not only the spa but try a different afternoon tea at another time of year in the Drawing Room, which I didn’t get to see at all unfortunately. Maybe a cosy winter’s weekend as Matfen Hall’s Northumberland countryside location makes it the perfect spot to curl up in front of a log fire, and there are plenty of those around Matfen Hall. Count me in.