The pool at Lucknam Park at night
I chose Lucknam Park in part for its autumn celebration of Wiltshire apples. I love feeling the seasons change and this seemed right up my street, as did the stylish spa and scale of the grounds. Then, a week before my visit, it was voted the number 1 Best Hotel in the UK and the number 3 Best Spa in the UK by Condé Nast Traveller. Would I agree though? I try not to have too many expectations before a stay. But I was curious to see where it would sit amongst my favourites.
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The tree-lined driveway
Arrival
Arriving at Lucknam Park down the mile-long, tree-lined drive, I wondered when the house would appear as the trees seemed to go forever. Then I saw a tiny speck, which slowly got bigger. However, I didn’t get this view until the second day. Google Maps sent me past Doncombe Lane where the main entrance is, and I ended up coming in through the side entry. If you’re coming from Bristol or Chippenham, drive past the first entry you see and make sure you turn right onto Doncombe Lane.
For my actual arrival, I passed the equestrian centre on my left and the spa and house on my right. Surprisingly, no one came out to greet me or the couple who arrived just before me. It felt like a slightly underwhelming arrival for the best hotel in the UK. This changed as I walked through the front door into the bright and sunny reception. It had a relaxed, homely vibe, made even better by Tom, who turned out to be one of the stars of Lucknam Park. He greeted me warmly and apologised for the wait. He sorted out a hot towel and seasonal warm apple drink, my first literal taste of the apple experience. It was like a hug in a glass, all appley and cosy. Perfect for an autumn welcome.
Then it was time to see my home for the next three nights.
Cosy corners in the room
The Room
I had picked a Country Room, one up from the entry Cosy Room. Room 19, or The Holly Room, had a very country garden feel with the decor. It matched the rest of the hotel’s style well. I liked the mishmash upholstery on the comfy chairs, which added a modern touch to the more traditional feel of things.
I was hoping for a bit of a view of the grounds and countryside given the name. It sadly didn’t have this though as it overlooked the kitchen entry. You need to book a suite for those views. The bathroom was a good size with a big shower, but no bath. This doesn’t bother me as I rarely have a bath, and especially not with a spa on the doorstep to relax in. The Lucknam Park toiletries smelt good but were a bit tricky to get out of some of the reusable bottles.
Each evening, as the room was serviced, a little treat was provided alongside a sleep tea and a bookmark you could plant, which was a novel idea. The first night was a CBD patch to aid rest and the second was a sleep oil. The third night was a postcard of Lucknam Park as a reminder of my time. Slippers were also placed by the bed with a mat saying Good Night on one side and Good Morning on the other, so you saw it as you got up. Cute.
My favourite part was the welcome apple tart, another bit of the apple season. It was a big hit, so I was happy to have two. While only small, the pastry was crisp and fresh with bits of chopped apple and a sort of crumble edge and an apple dome. I may have got it all over me as I bit into it.
Afternoon tea in the Restaurant Hywel Jones lounge
Afternoon Tea
Afternoon tea was advertised as being a part of the autumn experience. It was set in the Restaurant Hywel Jones lounge. I had a wonderful window spot overlooking the grounds so I could enjoy the autumn colours. The menu also had an autumn feel with a pumpkin tart with cinnamon Chantilly and of course an apple touch. The caramel apple dome sounded like a treat I would love, but it was replaced by the hotel’s apple travel cake. I had been looking forward to trying this at breakfast after reading about Emblems Collection’s signature cakes, each with a flavour that means something to the hotel. At Lucknam Park, that is apple. Unfortunately, the cake was no longer served at breakfast and was part of afternoon tea instead. The cake was OK, but it didn’t have as much flavour as the apple tart in the room, so it was a bit disappointing. I would have preferred to try it multiple times at breakfast, just to make sure though.
A few other things also fell short. I received a cucumber sandwich when everyone else had salmon, the ham and tomato sandwich had a strange unnecessary mayonnaise, the fresh ginger and lemon tea only tasted of lemon, and the quiche was overly oniony. A bit of a list of not-quite-theres, which made the whole tea OK. For £48 it was reasonable value, and just a few tweaks could make it great.
Chocolate mousse dessert as part of the four-course menu in Restaurant Hywel Jones
Restaurant Hywel Jones
The evening meal in Restaurant Hywel Jones was completely the opposite experience. The food was memorable from the first to the last mouthful. I only booked this on arrival after talking to Tom and hearing how good it was. The eight-course tasting menu, however, was a bit too much for me, so I went with the four courses, which turned into six or seven. Belle, who was the main server for the evening, helped me work out what to pick and carefully explained each dish as it arrived. All the staff were very attentive without being too much.
Food-wise, the canapés were little bursts of flavour. The first was a goat’s cheese and olive tapenade cone and the second was a smoked mackerel and taramasalata croustade with smoked cod roe. These were followed by two freshly made, warm rolls with two types of butter and a heritage beetroot tartare with a Perl Las blue cheese dome and candied walnuts. Nothing on this dish apart from the walnuts is something I would normally eat, but the flavours were not too strong and worked together well.
My starter of egg raviolo with hazelnut pesto didn’t seem hazelnutty; rather spinach and mushrooms were the stronger flavours. It was good but my least favourite dish. The main of Cornish turbot with autumn brassicas, lobster cassoulet and verjus was my favourite dish. It was also served with a soft, creamy and moreish celeriac purée, which was incredible. There was a saltiness to the dish, which complemented the soft fish and fresh, crisp vegetables that looked almost too pretty to eat.
There was a little whipped yoghurt and blackberry sorbet to refresh the palate, before I finished off with a chocolate dessert that actually hit the mark. A dark chocolate mousse with pecan nuts and a roast banana ice cream that tasted like an old-school milkshake. Full of banana flavour and a soft balance for the rich chocolate and cacao nibs of the crispy top layer.
For some people £140 may be too much for one meal, but I enjoyed it all and would do this again for a treat or special experience.
Roast chicken and fries in the Walled Garden
The Walled Garden
For more casual dining, the Walled Garden is available. It’s also where breakfast is served, which was a bit hit and miss. I loved the buffet offering, especially having more apple to experience with the Braeburn poached apples. The hot food was very mixed with a greasy smoked salmon on day one and cold sausages and weak eggs on the final day. My requested Bircher muesli also never arrived. The pastries and homemade strawberry jam were almost as good as in France.
For dinner I started with a cherry mocktail that was OK. I now know I don’t like margarita-style salt around the rim of my drinks though. As a small starter, the salmon skewers with pickled ginger, horseradish and lime were bursting with flavour yet also delicate. The grilled chicken with a sage and onion butter, served with fries, smelt so good that as it arrived the table two over asked what I’d ordered. The butter made the chicken even more tender and full of flavour. It was pure comfort food.
Outdoor hydrotherapy pool
The Spa
As always, I spent plenty of time in the spa. I made the most of all of it, starting with the small gym, which will soon be having a needed refurb. I like the free weights; a better range of machine weights would be good, but it is a small space.
The pool area had recently been through its own refurbishment and looked magnificent. The pool, especially at night, is gorgeous with the lights and the fire that runs along part of the far wall. I haven’t been in a pool with its own fire before, very cosy.
The 20-metre pool is ideal for swimming, and I loved that the hydrotherapy pool was separate. With some of it being outside, it’s refreshing to sit in the warm water and enjoy the garden and sounds of the countryside. One evening I heard an owl, which was amazing. On cooler mornings, you also see mist rising above the water, which is especially inviting. The only annoying thing is that there is no button to turn on the jets, so you have to sit and wait. They don’t seem to last that long either.
The sauna and steam area was a bit mixed for me. I loved the Himalayan Salt Sauna and the Japanese Salt Room, which were both good and strong. The Infrared Sauna was OK too, but it’s not as warm. The Aromatic Steam Room and Amethyst Room didn’t feel much of anything. Also, I prefer a plunge to cool off, not rubbing the ice shavings over me. There are smaller sauna and steam rooms in the changing area if you prefer some privacy or to go Finnish!
I had two treatments during my stay: a Coconut Lomi Lomi Massage, which was good, but I would have preferred a bit more oomph with it, especially at £250 for 90 minutes. The Jade Gua Sha facial with Nicole was my favourite thing about the whole spa. It was £170 for 60 minutes. I felt refreshed and relaxed after. It left my skin feeling clear, fresh and super smooth even into the next day. I would definitely book this again.
My first horse riding lesson on top of Carlos
Facilities
There is so much to do at Lucknam Park, including tennis, five-a-side football, pool table, table tennis both inside and out, trim trail and outside gym, plus a playground for kids. I didn’t try any of these, but I did have my first ever horse-riding lesson at the equestrian centre. It is incredible, with space for 30 or 40 horses and an arena for jumping.
As a complete novice, I was a little apprehensive before I mounted Carlos, my horse for the hour’s session, but I was put completely at ease by both Carlos himself and Kiri, the most wonderful instructor. Carlos was a big, brown, soft and gentle horse who helped make me look like a rider by the end of the lesson. Kiri was very supportive, friendly and just made the experience something I truly will never forget. We walked around the edge of the grounds and Kiri even got me trotting down the driveway, which was not something I thought I would be doing. Stopping in front of the house for a photo as the sun was coming down was very special. At £250 for the hour, it may be expensive, but the one-on-one tuition was invaluable. I learnt so much and came away feeling confident and comfortable enough to go on a horse again. The best thing during my whole trip.
One of the Lucknam Park gardens
The Grounds
Probably the standout of the hotel itself. The grounds are vast and peaceful. Being there in autumn as the leaves were turning was heavenly. It’s lovely to take a morning walk, and you’re spoilt for choice: the driveway, the fields, the gardens. There’s so much to take in and you feel a million miles away from everywhere. It’s perfect relaxation.
Moments That Shone
- Horse riding: My first ever lesson was so much fun, and I loved seeing more of the grounds from a different angle. Kiri was the most wonderful instructor, putting me fully at ease.
- Staff: Tom on reception who made me smile every day and offered suggestions for where to go outside the estate. Kayla on the spa reception who helped me work out treatments.
- Restaurant Hywel Jones: The four-course menu was one of the best meals from start to finish I have had in a while.
Moments That Fell Short
- Room view: Or lack of, even though the room itself was lovely.
- Some of the breakfast: Service was a little less on point and having cold food served is not good enough.
- Travel Cake: A shame it was no longer served at breakfast, as cake to start the day makes every day better.
Autumnal feels by the courtyard
Would I put Lucknam Park as my favourite hotel in the UK? Not quite, but it was a memorable experience, with so much to do and some delicious food. While some things may have fallen a bit short, there were a lot of moments that shone. It’s somewhere I would recommend for a romantic weekend, a special treat or even a getaway with the kids if they like activities. As with some of the other top hotels I have stayed in, it’s the staff that make the real difference. Lucknam Park really does have some wonderful people, and they are part of the moments that will stay with me for a long time to come.
If you fancy uncovering Lucknam Park yourself, check prices and book here.